Home » Wireless Router » TP-LINK TL-WA901ND Wireless N300 Access Point, 2.4Ghz 300Mbps, 802.11b/g/n, AP/Client/Bridge/Repeater, 3x 4dBi, Passive POE

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W100 Net Control Setup 1
wireless repeater
Image by brettneilson
Getting things setup at Net Control. When it was all said and done we had a UHF link to the Clayton nodes, a temporary repeater setup in Heber that linked into the Snowbird system for voice operations, a full network with internet connection and wireless access, multiple lookup computers and printers, a full phone system with cordless phones and extensions, air conditioning and various other communications at our disposal.

TP-LINK TL-WA901ND Wireless N300 Access Point, 2.4Ghz 300Mbps, 802.11b/g/n, AP/Client/Bridge/Repeater, 3x 4dBi, Passive POE

TP-LINK TL-WA901ND Wireless N300 Access Point, 2.4Ghz 300Mbps, 802.11b/g/n, AP/Client/Bridge/Repeater, 3x 4dBi, Passive POE

TP-Link TL-WA901ND 300Mbps Wireless N Access Point with 3x 4dBi Antennas

  • Wireless N speed up to 300Mbps makes it ideal for high bandwidth consuming or interruption sensitive applications like video streaming, online gaming and VoIP
  • Standards: IEEE 802.11n, IEEE 802.11g, IEEE 802.11b Interface: 1x 10/100 RJ45 Ethernet Port, Supporting PoE Antenna: 3x 4dBi Detachable Omni Directional Antenna
  • Wireless Signal Rates:11n: Up to 300Mbps(dynamic) 11g: Up to 54Mbps(dynamic) 11b: Up to 11Mbps(dynamic)
  • Frequency Range: 2.4-2.4835GHz Wireless Transmit Power: 20dBm(max. EIRP) Modulation Technology: DBPSK, DQPSK, CCK, OFDM, 16-QAM, 64-QAM
  • Ships in Certified Frustration-Free Packaging
  • Power Supply: Input – localized to country of sale; Output – 12VDC /1.0A Switching PSU
  • Wireless: AP Mode Multi-SSID Mode AP Client Mode Repeater Mode (WDS / Universal) AP+ Bridge mode (point-to-point / point to Multi-point)

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Question by Bob W: Which wireless router penetrates walls the best?
I currently have a D-Link DI-634M wireless super-G pre-N MIMO router, with the corresponding D-Link DWL-G650M wireless card on my laptop. I’ve been unhappy with the loss of signal as I move my laptop into other rooms. More than one room away from the router, and signal drops unacceptably.

At the time I bought this router, this MIMO technology was all the rage. But I’m really unhappy with the indoor through-wall range. Ideally, I’d like to cover my house with wireless signal without festooning it with wireless repeaters.

Is there a really powerful wireless router you recommend which is good at penetrating walls?

Best answer:

Answer by Adnan Sallam
That was my problem, we have three computers inside the house my computer in the Garage I couldn’t get connection in the garage . I gave up and used wire router.

Know better? Leave your own answer in the comments!

Wooww, nice product! I want to share this product!

What customers say about TP-LINK TL-WA901ND Wireless N300 Access Point, 2.4Ghz 300Mbps, 802.11b/g/n, AP/Client/Bridge/Repeater, 3x 4dBi, Passive POE?

  1. 41 of 42 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    Doing everything I expected it to, February 10, 2012
    Geomancer (Northern USA) –

    Hello and thank you for reading my review. First I think it would be beneficial to give a very brief explanation of my setup and why I was buying this access point.

    I’m a typical home user. I have an intermediate knowledge of computers, but certainly not an “IT” level of knowledge. In my house I have an 802.11n router in my basement next to my cable modem. From here I have a gigabit switch and patch panel that routes cat5e cable to various rooms in the house. For my wireless devices however, the signal strength was rather poor in the opposite corner of the house so I needed something to extend the range which leads me here.

    For my purposes I could use two different modes of operation. I could use this either as a repeater to extend the range, or as a standard access point.

    A repeater will take any traffic it receives and simply retransmit it along, which is after all why they call it a repeater. The problem with this is, 802.11 wireless drops off in datarate as range increases. At the extreme edge you will be down to 1 Mbps even if connected with an 802.11n device. So as an example if your router has a range of 300 feet, you could put this device in at the 300 foot line, and still communicate with your router 600 feet away (from the router). However, even if you were 310 feet away from the router (so only 10 feet away from the access point) your speed will still be only 1 Mbps, your speed will be limited by the weakest link (300 feet between router and access point). So why use it? It gives you the range without needing any cords aside from power. I tried this mode and it worked well.

    For me though, since I have the cat5e routed through the house, I decided ultimately to set this up as a traditional access point. This lets me be out of range of the router, yet if I’m close to the AP I can still get the full 802.11n speed. I also used the included Power over Ethernet (PoE) module for two reasons. One, it lets me put the access point anywhere without regard for an outlet needing to be nearby, and two I can plug the PoE module into my UPS (Uninterpretable Power Supply) along with the rest of my networking equipment to keep it running in a power outage. The PoE module is very small and easily placed anywhere along the line.

    So far it has run perfectly and I have not needed to power cycle it once in the two months of ownership. I have the AP set up with the same SSID as my router so my devices will automatically connect to the stronger. I now have 4-5 bars of signal strength no mater where I am, and throughput more than high enough to stream everything I’ve tried so far.

    This access point does feature other modes of operation, but I have not tried them so I won’t talk to them.

    If I encounter any problems, I will be sure to update this review. In closing, I would say this access point is a good idea for any home user. You can use it as a repeater if you don’t have any cat5e wiring, or use it as an access point if you run a network cable to your base router. It’s also useful if your router does not not have built in wireless, in which case you could configure this as an access point and just connect it to your router with them both in the same room.

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  2. 16 of 17 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    Great Access Point, January 1, 2011
    Gromit (Hudsonville, MI United States) –

    Read the directions and I was able to get this Access Point up and running as a Client in no more than 30 minutes, from set-up at my wired desktop to hooking it up to my Blu-Ray Player. There is nothing on the CD except the WA901ND User’s Guide, I used the Web-Based Interface and this interface is even better than the TD-W8960N Modem/Wireless Router that I used to link to the Internet. The interface has most of the User Guide information in a separate pane on the right-hand side of the interface. The Client sync’d up with the Wireless Access Point without any issues and the AP is at the other end of the house and one floor down in the basement. A basic check with my iPod Touch shows full bars all over the house.

    I was elated to find that the WA901ND had a Bridge w/AP Mode (not listed in the features but is in the Users Guide), however this mode only supports WEP wireless security which makes it useless if you want a secure network. I had to default to Client Mode for my set-up. I wish Bridge w/AP Mode had WPA/WPA2 security like every other mode, maybe this will get fixed in a future Firmware Update.

    The three antennas are removable with RP-SMA Connectors so you can extend the antennas to a better position if needed.

    Runs warm but not hot, once I get some antenna extension cables it will be housed in my Home Automation Panel (metal box on the basement wall) and I do not expect any issues with over heating.

    You can refer to DSLReportsDOTcom, CompnetworkingDOTaboutDOTcom, or NetScribeDOTcom (search for Wireless Design) for a number of useful forums/articles on networking.

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  3. 10 of 13 people found the following review helpful
    3.0 out of 5 stars
    (Review for version 2.x only) Decent hardware, buggy stock firmware, but works well with OpenWrt (see comments for info), January 27, 2012
    E. Fonnesbeck

    Amazon Verified Purchase(What’s this?)

    Updated 2013/09/12

    Note: This applies to the version 2.x device only.
    I have not tested the newer version 3.x device or the older 1.x.

    First of all, no, I would not recommend this device unless you already intend to replace the firmware no matter what device you are getting.

    The hardware for this does seems to be fairly good: I get great signal from it and haven’t had it crash from overheating, etc.

    However, TP-Link’s firmware for this device has some bugs in the wireless functionality causing it to stop working in some conditions (no longer can connect to it, but it still transmits an unusable wireless signal), requiring a reboot of the access point. I have two of these – same issue. In my case, it did still respond over the wired connection when this happens, others I’ve heard haven’t been as “lucky.” No new firmware updates to fix any issues for almost a year.

    The problem is only software, though. There are firmware images from the current development version of OpenWrt that do work well on this device and do not have this problem. Note that TP-Link states that any issues you have as a result of using third-party firmwares will not be covered under warranty, probably fairly standard policy.

    The non-release OpenWrt images provided for this device on the OpenWrt site do not include the web configuration tool (named luci) by default, last I checked. You must build your own or find one someone else has built for including luci by default (unless you’re fine with configuring it from the console with telnet and ssh). If you have a computer with Linux and enough free hard drive space it isn’t too hard to do, though. Release versions of OpenWrt do include luci, if I remember right, so there will eventually be ready-to-use images provided for it.

    I have two of these access points. Currently one is connected to my network and providing wireless access while the other connects to it to provide wired access to multiple devices in another room by having the WDS function on both access points enabled and plugging it into a network switch. I bought the second one knowing that the stock firmware was unusable for me, but it was one of the cheaper options at the time and I suppose I just didn’t want to get something else I didn’t know I could get working reliably.

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  4. I’ve always had good luck with Linksys and Netgear products both at home and in the workplace but before you swap out your router try changing the placement to a more centrally located area as near the ceiling, or even a higher floor, as possible as they have an umbrella effect.

    The other possibility is to try changing the channel from 9 to something else and checking to see if possibly other equipment (cordless phones using the same frequency range, neighbours, etc) could be interfering with your signals.

  5. i would try linksys and if that doesn’t help, get a repeater.

  6. I have a Linksys WRT54G. No speed boost or other add ons. I can go 3 floors from my router. About 350 feet through walls and floors. I still get a VERY GOOD signal. Try broadcasting on a different channel. If this does not help, try setting the BEACON interval to 50. If that does not work, I would try a Linksys.

  7. Signal Quality depends both on the router and your laptop. Even if you had a powerful router that can transmit, it doesn’t necessarily mean that your laptop will be able to communicate back. In order to do that. you’ll need both a powerful wireless card and a powerful router.


    MiniPCI wireless card

    If you cannot find the exact miniPCI card, search for atheros 400mw mini pci on google

    At the end of the day, this solution will cost you more than the repeater. But you asked for it..

  8. Linksys WRT54GL – i tested it and i had good connection through 3 walls and more than 50 meters….

  9. Make sure you have the latest driver for your NIC and latest firmware for the router. The loss of signal can be cause by many things and it’s probably not the router itself. Try moving the router to the highest floor in a central location. Make sure there are no wireless devices that use the same band nearby. Check the router speed along with the NIC. Make sure it’s set at b/g mixed mode or g mode only. If you want the best router, i would suggest the Dlink Dir-655 Extreme N. This is the router i am using right now and it’s just rocks !!! The router is in the basement (bad for signal strength) but my Vista laptop on 2 floor above always get a 99% signal !!! Not only that this router also power my Win XP,Win 98 SE and Xbox 360 too. Check out the chart for the best routers here : http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/component/option,com_chart/Itemid,189/

  10. Because of FCC rules and regulations, WiFi transmitters are restricted to low output power levels so really, you have to play the game of line of sight positioning and if that fails, go for the repeater option….

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