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Transcend 16GB Class 10 SDHC Flash Memory Card (TS16GSDHC10E)


Transcend 16GB Class 10 SDHC Flash Memory Card (TS16GSDHC10E)


Transcend 16 GB SDHC Class 10 Flash Memory Card

The SDHC Class 10 series offer larger-volume data storage and optimized recording performance with support for FAT 32 file formats. With up to 16GB of storage, you can store your entire music or picture collection on today’s high-megapixel digital cameras, HDTV digital video cameras, PDAs and other memory-hungry devices.

Compatible with:

  • Transcend: SDHC

  • Compatible with all SDHC-labeled host devices (not compatible with standard SD)
  • RoHS compliant,Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Easy to use, plug-and-play operation
  • Fully compatible with SD 3.0 Standards
  • Min. Read / Write Speed: 10MB/s

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Question by JT: How to set up Wifi and Cable internet?
I have a cable modem connected to my desktop. I also have a wireless router I just purchased. Apparently I have to disconnect the cable from my modem and replace it with the connection to router.
This means i will have to use wireless for both my desktop and laptop?
Is there a way I can use wireless for my laptop but keep cable for my desktop?
Main reason is I dont want to experience decreased speed on desktop.

Best answer:

Answer by Candie Gal
I use to be able to do this myself, but that’s been too many years ago. So, instead of misleading you, I googled it and found these instructions, which should be fairly easy to follow. Link below.

http://www.ehow.com/how_6940580_set-wi_fi-router-cable-internet.html

You can also google the title of your question on the google search engine and it will pull up more material on the subject.

Give your answer to this question below!

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What customers say about Transcend 16GB Class 10 SDHC Flash Memory Card (TS16GSDHC10E)?

  1. 2,747 of 2,806 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    Great Value for the Price, April 11, 2010
    By 
    Stephen (Southern CA) –
    (TOP 1000 REVIEWER)
      

    Amazon Verified Purchase(What’s this?)

    Customer Video Review Length:: 1:10 Mins

    Update 3/6/2012 I own about 20 Transcend cards now. They have all worked without an issue untill today. I dread calling any company for return support because it usually is such a tortured experience…(Ever tried calling SanDisk for product support?) Withing 20 seconds of dialing I was connected to their representative Marc Crawford. He was able to quickly and clearly guide me to the support I needed. It was such a shockingly great experience that I wanted to pass it along to potential purchasers.

    UPDATE 9-10 I own 4 of these cards now. I have more of these than any other card I own because they are a very good value for capacity/price/and speed. My initial disappointment over the lack of super high speed is outweighed by the reality that this card is an exceptional value.

    If you own a compact digital camera, or SD/HD video camera, this card will exceed the capabilities of all of them. For compact cameras the card isn’t usually the slowest part of the data write process, it’s the camera.
    This card unloads very quickly with a 20MB/s read speed. You will need a SDHC card reader if you don’t have one. A standard SD card reader will not read a HC (high capacity) card.

    These cards make great gifts. I have given several of the 8 Gig cards as gifts and have received appreciation and great comments from all the recipients.

    UPDATED REVIEW:
    I purchased this card making the assumption that all class 10 cards had the same read and write speed. This was a poor assumption on my part. In order for a card to qualify for class 10 speed the card needs to be certified to have 10MB/s write and read speed. Some manufacturers classify their cards at a slower speed even though they qualify for a higher class. SanDisk make some cards that would qualify for class 10 and rates them as class 6.

    The product photo on Amazon does not have the card’s speed printed on it. The card that was shipped shows the front of the card printed with “20MB/s” which is the cards read speed. The cards write speed is 16MB/s.

    I own a SanDisk Extreme III class 10 card that has (up to) 30MB/s read and write speed. My Nikon D-90 that can take advantage of the SanDisk cards speed. The difference is the SanDisk card can capture 100 photos at fine resolution in 24 seconds. The Transcend card captures 66 photos in the same time/resolution.

    I reality very few people will ever have the need to drill off 100 photos in 24 seconds, but I can’t stand to lose a good shot because the camera is slow while writing to the card and I can’t fire the shutter. You can hear this happen at about 4.5 seconds in the video review. This does not happen with the SanDisk class 10 30MB/s card.

    If you own an SLR that is capable of rapid fire, high-resolution photography you may want to consider the SanDisk Extreme III 30 MB/s card. It is expensive.

    This card is reasonably priced for a class 10 card. Just know what you are getting, what your needs may be, and what else is available. I own other Transcend cards and they have always worked properly without any issues.

    The video that I attached shows this card with the same 24 seconds that I gave the SanDisk Card.

    To see the SanDisk Extreme III 30MB/s video demo and review on Amazon go to:

    Sandisk SDSDX3-008G-E31 8GB Extreme III SD Card 30MB/s (RETAIL PACKAGE)

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  2. 488 of 509 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    Fast, fast, fast!, March 15, 2010
    By 

    Amazon Verified Purchase(What’s this?)

    I bought this card for my Canon T1i. The card I had been using before ordering this one was a Kingston Class 6 micro sd card and it worked well enough for the type of shooting I did. Class 6 was the card speed that Canon recommended when I bought my T1i (Class 10 cards were not yet available) and it seemed fast enough for the way I used my camera – isolated single photos taken at Medium (8 MP) or Large (15 MP) jpg settings and 1280 x 720 video. And while I ocassionally took continuous photos, I had never much exceeded 5-10 photos in a row and had never run into a problem with my Class 6 card.

    When I first saw the Class 10 cards I did some experiments with my camera. How many continuous Large photos could I take before the camera slowed down? It turned out to be about 30. And how many RAW photos could I take before the camera slowed down? It turned out to be about 9. SInce I did not generally take any photos in RAW and never needed more than about 10 continuous photos at Large, the Class 6 card seemed more than sufficient for my needs. But I wondered about the speed of the Class 10 cards enough that I finally bought one.

    It turns out that the Class 10 card is sufficiently fast that there does not seem to be a reasonable upper limit on single Large photos. I have taken 60 on continuous without an issue. And although I still cannot take more than 9 RAW photos on continuous with the Class 10 card, when I am finished taking those photos the camera no longer displays a Wait – writing pictures screen. The RAW photos get written from the built-in memory to the card so quickly that the camera does not need to display the Wait screen.

    So this card is fast! Given the way I take photos this purchase was unnecessary, but still I am glad I bought it. I know I will not run into a situation where speed is an issue with this card.

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  3. 523 of 554 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    Fast!, April 8, 2010
    By 
    James P. Stone (Katy, TX, US) –
    (REAL NAME)
      

    Amazon Verified Purchase(What’s this?)

    I purchased this for use with my new Canon T2i. I use it primarily for shooting full resolution 1080p video, although I shoot stills as well.

    The camera choked on the class 4 chip that I originally purchased, but with this one, it is amazing. I can shoot rapidfire 18 megapixel stills (I’ve tested it up to 30+ shots in a row), and there is no lag. I’ve never had an error when shooting hi-def video.

    Highly recommended! I’m buying another one.

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  4. Your ethernet cable will go from the cable modem to the wifi unit. The wifi unit should have some ethernet cable connections on the back that will allow you to run another ethernet cable from the wifi router to another device, such as a desk top computer. The connections should be marked for “in” or “out”. The cable box connects to an “in” connection and the computer connects to an “out” connection. This is how my unit is configured. I have a wifi with up to four connections and my desktop computer is plugged into one of them.

    Basically, you just need an extra ethernet cable to connect the desktop.

  5. ..

  6. Unplug your broadband modem from its power source.
    Plug one end of your Ethernet cable into the rear of the wireless router, and the other end into the back of the broadband modem. There will be Ethernet ports on each of these devices to accommodate the Ethernet cable. For the unfamiliar, an Ethernet port looks exactly like an over-sized telephone jack.

    Connect your broadband modem to the power source. Turn the modem on, allow it to boot up and give it opportunity to detect its new connection to the wireless router via the Ethernet cable. This will take about a minute.

    Find your router manual. This official documentation ships with the router. Find the section within the manual that details the setup information for your router. You will need two specific pieces of information: the default URL (web address) and the default password provided by the manufacturer.

    Enter the URL into the address bar of your web browser (Firefox, Internet Explorer, or otherwise) and hit “Enter.”

    Enter the password from the manual when prompted. This gives you access as an administrator for your new wireless network, enabling you to establish its settings.

    Choose a wireless network name for your new network, also known as a “SSID.” This name is whatever you desire, and will be the name displayed in the available wireless network lists when you search to join your network later.

    Choose a password for your network if you want to protect it against unauthorized users. Also, select a kind of security encryption. You will have “WEP” and “WPA” encryption from which to choose. Some older routers only support the WEP protocol, but most currently on the market as of 2010 support WEP. Choose WEP for superior encryption strength.

    Click the “Save” button to apply your new settings. Your WiFi wireless internet connection is now set up and ready for use.

  7. Setting up a router is easy.

    It will NOT slow down the desktop. It also means your next printer will be a network one. (print from anywhere in the house!) And you can get a network attached storage drive. (Big Hard drive on your network. Back up to it, when house burning down, grab that and run)

    Find place to put router near modem.
    Move Ethernet cable from computer to the routers WAN port.
    Recycle the modem (pull plug, plug back in. This causes it to renegotiate your connection as you are changing the MAC address when you move the cable)
    When the lights settle down, plug in router
    Get another Ethernet cable and plug it into the computer and one of the four ports on the router

    At this point, you can use the disk that comes with it but I have never used one. Looked at one once just to see what was on it. It is NOT needed.

    Open a browser
    In the address bar, put in 192.168.x.1 where x is what ever it says int the manual. This is 0, 1, or 2
    The manual will also have default login instructions. This is usually some combination of admin, password and blank. D-Link is Admin and no password. Some are no user name and admin for password. Try them all or look in the manual.

    Run the internet wizard that most routers have. This sets up your connection to the ISP
    Run the network wizard. This sets up your internal network
    Run the WiFi wizard. WiFi doesn’t work till you do this.

    When setting up WiFi use WPA2 encryption and pick a long, non dictionary pass phrase that you can remember. See http://www.grc.com/haystack.htm for more info on this Alternative is let all your neighbors use your internet.

    Now that you have done this, press Windows key R and type MRT on both computers. Do a thorough scan. Running a computer directly attached to a modem is VERY VERY dangerous. This is known as surfing naked. Many many viruses can get past software firewalls but bounce off the hardware one in your router. You still should use the software one.


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